TRAPANI E LA PESCA IN TONNARA di Lorena Coluccia – Numero 8 – Luglio 2017

Ci sono storie che sembrano leggende e uomini che incarnano figure epiche. Quella della pesca con il sistema delle tonnare fisse è una tradizione che profuma di mito, un rito sempre uguale a sè stesso, dove esperienza e superstizione, sudore e spiritualità, convivono miracolosamente. 

 

La Sicilia è stata terra di tonnare per secoli e Trapani contava più di 20 impianti. Tonnara è parola dalla semantica ricca e articolata, così come lo sono le attività e le emozioni a essa correlate: tonnara è il termine usato per indicare il complesso sistema di reti che intercettano i tonni rossi del Mediterraneo; ma – per estensione – tonnara è anche il luogo in cui quelle reti si calano e, ancora, il nucleo di edifici di appoggio all’attività e alla lavorazione del pescato.

 

Al di là delle definizioni, la tonnara, per Trapani, rappresentava un microcosmo fatto di uomini – il rais, i tonnaroti, ma anche i mastri d’ascia, i sommozzatori, gli artigiani – e di azioni che, insieme, determinavano la fisionomia di un territorio, la sua economia, il suo sapere, i suoi costumi.

 

La tonnara è un’elaborata architettura subacquea composta da un lungo braccio di rete, il pedale, steso perpendicolarmente alla costa, che termina su un grande rettangolo chiamato isola, dentro cui i tonni si indirizzano quando trovano il cammino sbarrato dal pedale. L’isola è composta a sua volta da più camere, l’ultima delle quali, la camera della morte, è quella in cui avveniva il rito della mattanza.Tutte le azioni legate a questa antica tradizione – la preparazione di reti e imbarcazioni, il calato, il controllo, la pesca, il salpato – sono accompagnate da preghiere, azioni scaramantiche, riti propiziatori, canti (le emozionanti cialome) che, in equilibrio tra sacro e profano, definiscono un patrimonio antropologico non riproducibile. Oggi a Trapani non si calano più tonnare e anche gli edifici che, un tempo, supportavano questa attività sono diventati altro: nei casi più fortunati, sono esempi straordinari di architettura industriale (è il caso dell’ex Stabilimento Florio di Favignana, la cui visita vale un viaggio) o di strutture ricettive e d’accoglienza (come Scopello o Bonagia); nei casi peggiori, sono costruzioni in disarmo, edifici abbandonati a sè stessi e al tempo.

 

In tutta la Sicilia vi è un’unica realtà, proprio a Trapani, che ha conservato la sua originale funzione, quella di lavorazione e inscatolamento del tonno 

in scatola. Si tratta della tonnara di San Cusumano, oggi azienda 

Nino Castiglione, sulla cui torre si scorge ancora l’originale tonno 

di metallo che, in cima a un’asta, indica la direzione del vento.

 

Dal suo movimento dipendevano le speranze dell’omonimo fondatore di poter contare su un maestrale favorevole o le paure di dover temere il vento di scirocco che allontanava i tonni dalla costa. Oggi questa azienda, nata dall’amore di don Nino per la tonnara, è il primo produttore in Italia di tonno in scatola a marchio delle maggiori insegne della grande distribuzione e occupa 230 persone; numero che, in un angolo del sud così periferico, significa molto più che in qualunque altra parte del paese.

 

Ma, sebbene l’azienda rappresenti un’avanguardia in termini di automazione 

e tecnologia, sicurezza alimentare e innovazione, continua ad ambire al recupero della tradizione della pesca con la tonnara fissa.

 

Sistema che ha volontariamente interrotto nel 2003, a differenza di altri soggetti economici, con l’obiettivo di restare al 100% sostenibile e nel rispetto delle misure dell’Unione Europea per la salvaguardia del tonno rosso del Mediterraneo, definito specie a rischio. Fortunatamente tali misure (l’assegnazione all’Italia di quote tonno ridotte a poche tonnellate) ha funzionato così bene che in meno di un ventennio vi è stato un significativo ripopolamento della specie, tanto da indurre l’Europa ad aumentare le quantità di tonno rosso pescabile. Si riaccende, quindi, la speranza per l’azienda Nino Castiglione e per il territorio tutto di recuperare un patrimonio di conoscenze e tradizioni che altrimenti rischia di essere perduto per sempre.

 

Sia chiaro: la tonnara non contemplerà mai più il rito della mattanza, considerato troppo sanguinolento da chi non ne conosce i metodi e lo giudica solo sulla base dell’apparenza; ma il sistema di pesca ha invece qualche possibilità di essere recuperato.

 

Tutte le principali istituzioni nazionali ed europee, e le più importanti associazioni ambientaliste, hanno, infatti, finalmente convenuto che tale tecnica è la più ecosostenibile al mondo. Le maglie larghe delle reti che trattengono solo pesci di grossa taglia; lo sbarramento costituito dal pedale che interrompe il cammino dei tonni solo per un breve tratto; l’impossibilità di inseguire la preda (come avviene con le tonnare volanti); l’ancoraggio al fondale tramite pietre che non lo danneggiano (come invece fanno le reti a strascico); la continuazione del processo di riproduzione anche all’interno delle reti, garantiscono il rispetto del sistema marino e della specie, scongiurandone il depauperamento.

 

Attività sostenibile anche rispetto alle produzioni tipiche: è associata alla pesca con tonnara, infatti, anche la creazione di prodotti di nicchia come tunnina, mosciame, ficazza, bottarga, lattume; nomi che rievocano una tradizione gastronomica antica, un tempo in cui il tonno era un dono del mare che non andava sprecato e di cui si lavorava ogni parte.

 

Nella primavera del 2016 la Nino Castiglione, come partner tecnico del comune di Favignana e dell’Area Marina Protetta delle Isole Egadi, ha calato la tonnara sullo specchio acqueo davanti a Favignana, proprio nel luogo da sempre deputato a questa attività. È stata una tonnara a scopo scientifico e di monitoraggio – indispensabile a scongiurare la cancellazione definitiva di Favignana dalla lista dei siti vocati a questo sistema di pesca – senza l’assegnazione di quote e, quindi, senza possibilità di commercializzare il pescato.

 

Ora, ciò che bisogna augurarsi è che l’isola ottenga le quote tonno, così da rendere l’operazione economicamente sostenibile e, in questo modo, garantire la sopravvivenza di un patrimonio che Trapani, la Sicilia, l’Italia tutta 

non possono permettersi di perdere.

 

 

 

 

 

 

FOTO di Stefano Benazzo_79
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TRAPANI         E LA PESCA IN TONNARA

 

lorena_coluccia
foto_di_stefano_benazzo
tra_passato_glorioso

“I pescatori, che hanno la faccia solcata da rughe che sembrano sorrisi e, qualsiasi cosa tu gli confidi, l’hanno già saputa dal mare”
(Fabrizio De André)

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ty = ty === 'min-auto' ? - contHeight : ty; /* Loop through cols*/ for (var i = 0; i 0) { var add = colRemainder >= colAdd ? colAdd : colRemainder; newColWidth += add; colRemainder -= add; } /* Nested loop to create row gridlets for each col.*/ for (var j = 0; j 0) { add = newRowRemainder >= rowAdd ? rowAdd : rowRemainder; newRowHeight += add; newRowRemainder -= add; } /* Create & append gridlet to grid.*/ grid.append(huge_it_gridlet(newColWidth, newRowHeight, topDist, img_topDst, leftDist, img_leftDist, imgSrc, imgWidth, imgHeight, i, j)); topDist += newRowHeight; img_topDst -= newRowHeight; } img_leftDist -= newColWidth; leftDist += newColWidth; } /* Set event listener on last gridlet to finish transitioning.*/ var last_gridlet = grid.children().last(); /* Show grid & hide the image it replaces.*/ grid.show(); cur_img.css('opacity', 0); /* Add identifying classes to corner gridlets (useful if applying border radius).*/ grid.children().first().addClass('rs-top-left'); grid.children().last().addClass('rs-bottom-right'); grid.children().eq(rows - 1).addClass('rs-bottom-left'); grid.children().eq(- rows).addClass('rs-top-right'); /* Execution steps.*/ setTimeout(function () { grid.children().css({ opacity: op, transform: 'rotate('+ ro +'deg) translateX('+ tx +'px) translateY('+ ty +'px) scale('+ sc +')' }); }, 1); jQuery(next_image_class).css('opacity', 1); /* After transition.*/ jQuery(last_gridlet).one('webkitTransitionEnd transitionend otransitionend oTransitionEnd mstransitionend', jQuery.proxy(huge_it_after_trans)); function huge_it_after_trans() { jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, 'z-index' : 2}); cur_img.css('opacity', 1); grid.remove(); huge_it_trans_in_progress_55 = false; if (typeof event_stack_55 !== 'undefined' && event_stack_55.length > 0) { key = event_stack_55[0].split("-"); event_stack_55.shift(); huge_it_change_image_55(key[0], key[1], data_55, true,false); } } } function huge_it_sliceH_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_55(1, 8, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_sliceV_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_55(10, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideV_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } huge_it_grid_55(1, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideH_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_55(1, 1, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleOut_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_55(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 1.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleIn_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_55(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blockScale_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_55(8, 6, 0, 0, 0, .6, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_kaleidoscope_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_55(10, 8, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_fan_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var rotate = 45; var translateX = 100; } else if (direction == 'left') { var rotate = -45; var translateX = -100; } huge_it_grid_55(1, 10, rotate, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blindV_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_55(1, 8, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_blindH_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_55(10, 1, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_random_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { var anims = ['sliceH', 'sliceV', 'slideH', 'slideV', 'scaleOut', 'scaleIn', 'blockScale', 'kaleidoscope', 'fan', 'blindH', 'blindV']; /* Pick a random transition from the anims array.*/ this["huge_it_" + anims[Math.floor(Math.random() * anims.length)] + "_55"](current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function iterator_55() { return 1; } function huge_it_change_image_55(current_key, key, data_55, from_effect, clicked) { if (data_55[key]) { if (!from_effect) { // Change image key. jQuery("#huge_it_current_image_key_55").val(key); current_key = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_55").attr("data-image_key"); } if (huge_it_trans_in_progress_55) { event_stack_55.push(current_key + '-' + key); return; } var direction = 'right'; if (huge_it_current_key_55 > key) { direction = 'left'; } else if (huge_it_current_key_55 == key) { return false; } // Set active thumbnail position. huge_it_current_key_55 = key; jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_55").attr('data-image_id', data_55[key]["id"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_title_text_55").html(data_55[key]["alt"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_description_text_55").html(data_55[key]["description"]); var current_image_class = "#image_id_55_" + data_55[current_key]["id"]; var next_image_class = "#image_id_55_" + data_55[key]["id"]; if (jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_video_frame_55').length > 0) { var streffect = 'fade'; if (streffect == "cubeV" || streffect == "cubeH" || streffect == "none" || streffect == "fade") { huge_it_fade_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else { huge_it_fade_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } } else { huge_it_fade_55(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_55').removeClass('none'); if (jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_55').html() == "") { jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_55').addClass('none'); } jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_55').removeClass('none'); if (jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_55').html() == "") { jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_55').addClass('none'); } jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_55').addClass('none'); jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_55').addClass('none'); huge_it_move_dots_55(); /*** for vimeo and youtube stop pause play etc... ***/ var nextVideo = jQuery('#video_id_55_' + key).attr('data-element-id'); var currentVideo = jQuery('#video_id_55_' + current_key).attr('data-element-id'); /*** add ***/ (currentVideo || nextVideo) && stopYoutubeVideo(currentVideo, nextVideo); if ((jQuery('#player_55_' + current_key)).hasClass('huge-it-iframe-vimeo')) { jQuery('#player_55_' + current_key).vimeo('pause'); } if ((jQuery('#player_55_' + key)).hasClass('huge-it-iframe-vimeo') && ('off' == 'on')) { jQuery('#player_55_' + key).vimeo('play'); } /*** ***/ window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_' +55]); play_55(); } } var staticthumbWidth; jQuery(window).load(function() { staticthumbWidth = jQuery('#huge_it_thumb_slider>li').width(); }); function huge_it_popup_resize_55() { var staticsliderwidth =900; var sliderwidth =900; var bodyWidth = jQuery(window).width(); var parentWidth = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_55").parent().width(); if (sliderwidth > parentWidth) { sliderwidth = parentWidth; } if (sliderwidth > bodyWidth) { sliderwidth = bodyWidth; } var str=600/(staticsliderwidth); var str2 =100/900; var sliderDynamicImageHeight = sliderwidth*str; var sliderDynamicThumbHeight = 0; jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_55').css({'max-height':sliderDynamicImageHeight+sliderDynamicThumbHeight}); jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap1_55').css({'max-height':sliderDynamicImageHeight}); jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_thumbs_55 li').css({'max-height':sliderDynamicThumbHeight}); jQuery("#huge_it_loading_image_55").css({display: "none"}); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap1_55").css({opacity: 1}); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_55").removeClass("nocolor"); if ("resize"=="crop"){ jQuery(".huge_it_slider_ul li img").each(function(){ if(jQuery(this).prop('naturalWidth')>jQuery(this).prop('naturalHeight')) jQuery(this).css({'width':'100%','height':'auto'/*,'top':'50%','left':'50%','transform':'translate( -50%, -50% )'*/}); else{ jQuery(this).css({'height':'100%','width':'auto'/*,'top':'50%','left':'50%','transform':'translate( -50%, -50% )'*/}); } }); } jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_55").css({opacity:1}); } jQuery(window).load(function () { jQuery(window).resize(function() { huge_it_popup_resize_55(); }); jQuery('#huge_it_slideshow_left_55').on('click',function(){ huge_it_change_image_55(parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_55').val()), (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_55').val()) - iterator_55()) >= 0 ? (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_55').val()) - iterator_55()) % data_55.length : data_55.length - 1, data_55,false,true); return false; }); jQuery('#huge_it_slideshow_right_55').on('click',function(){ huge_it_change_image_55(parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_55').val()), (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_55').val()) + iterator_55()) % data_55.length, data_55,false,true); return false; }); huge_it_popup_resize_55(); /* Disable right click.*/ jQuery('div[id^="huge_it_container"]').bind("contextmenu", function () { return false; }); /*HOVER SLIDESHOW*/ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_container_55, .huge_it_slideshow_image_container_55, .huge_it_slideshow_dots_container_55,#huge_it_slideshow_right_55,#huge_it_slideshow_left_55").hover(function(){ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_right_55").css({'display':'inline'}); jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_left_55").css({'display':'inline'}); },function(){ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_right_55").css({'display':'none'}); jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_left_55").css({'display':'none'}); }); if(pausehover=="on" && !/Android|webOS|iPhone|iPad|iPod|BlackBerry|IEMobile|Opera Mini/i.test(navigator.userAgent)){ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_container_55, .huge_it_slideshow_image_container_55").hover(function(){ window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+55]); scrolling = false; },function(){ window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+55]); scrolling = true; play_55(); }); } play_55(); }); function play_55(){ if(scrolling || /Android|webOS|iPhone|iPad|iPod|BlackBerry|IEMobile|Opera Mini/i.test(navigator.userAgent)){ huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+55] = setInterval(function () { var iterator = 1; huge_it_change_image_55(parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_55').val()), (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_55').val()) + iterator) % data_55.length, data_55,false,false); }, '4000'); } } jQuery(window).focus(function() { var i_55 = 0; jQuery(".huge_it_slider_55").children("div").each(function () { if (jQuery(this).css('opacity') == 1) { jQuery("#huge_it_current_image_key_55").val(i_55); } i_55++; }); }); jQuery(window).blur(function() { console.log(event_stack_55); window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+55]); }); jQuery(window).focus(function() { play_55() });
jQuery(document).ready(function(jQuery) { setInterval(function() { jQuery('.huge_it_slider_55').find("li").each(function() { if (jQuery(this).css("opacity") == "1") { var img_id = jQuery(this).attr('id'); jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_thumbs_55').each(function() { var allListElements = jQuery('li[id=' + img_id + ']'); jQuery(this).find(allListElements).not(".bx-clone").each(function() { jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_thumbs_55 li').find(".trans_back").css('background', 'rgba(255,255,255,0.3)'); jQuery(this).find('.trans_back').css('background', 'none'); }) }) } }) }, 100) })
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