PIZZI E MERLETTI. “DIETRO UNA FINESTRA DI RINGHIERA” di Venera Coco – Numero 3 – Gennaio 2016

copertina-coco
cat-arte
cat-stile
Tombulu

racconta il professore Rocco Zito. Erano gli arnesi più comuni nelle mani delle giovani siciliane che preparavano con ansia i loro corredi, sperando di poter un giorno esibire quei manufatti con l’audacia delle padrone di casa. Per molto tempo le città di un’isola, complessa e misteriosa, sono state ornate dalla bellezza e raffinatezza di quei merletti e quei pizzi che riuscivano a rendere prezioso ogni angolo delle dimore, ogni vessillo sugli altari delle chiese, perfino ciò che poteva essere indossato e di certo rimanere segreto.

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function hugeitframe() { jQuery('.huge-it-iframe.autoplay').each(function(){ var el_id = jQuery(this).attr('data-element-id'); if(window['player_'+el_id]) { window['player_'+el_id]['playVideo'](); clearInterval(setplayVideo); } }); } }()); } } }); /*** initialize***/ <!-- --> jQuery(document).ready(function() { jQuery('.thumb_wrapper').on('click', function(ev) { var myid = jQuery(this).data('rowid'); myid = parseInt(myid); eval('player_' + myid + '.playVideo()'); ev.preventDefault(); }); }); if(typeof sliderID_array =="undefined") { var sliderID_array=[]; } var data_19 = []; var event_stack_19 = []; data_19["0"]=[];data_19["0"]["id"]="0";data_19["0"]["image_url"]="https://www.myrrha.it/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/art_coco-1-1.jpg";data_19["0"]["description"]="";data_19["0"]["alt"]="";data_19["1"]=[];data_19["1"]["id"]="1";data_19["1"]["image_url"]="https://www.myrrha.it/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/art_coco-2-1.jpg";data_19["1"]["description"]="";data_19["1"]["alt"]="";data_19["2"]=[];data_19["2"]["id"]="2";data_19["2"]["image_url"]="https://www.myrrha.it/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/art_coco-3-2.jpg";data_19["2"]["description"]="";data_19["2"]["alt"]="";data_19["3"]=[];data_19["3"]["id"]="3";data_19["3"]["image_url"]="https://www.myrrha.it/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/art_coco-4-2.jpg";data_19["3"]["description"]="";data_19["3"]["alt"]=""; var huge_it_trans_in_progress_19 = false; var huge_it_transition_duration_19 = 1000; var huge_interval = {}; var id_array_index = sliderID_array.length; sliderID_array[id_array_index] = // Stop autoplay. window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+19]); var huge_it_current_key_19 = ''; function huge_it_move_dots_19() { var image_left = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").position().left; var image_right = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").position().left + jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").outerWidth(true); } function huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransitions_19() { return huge_it_testDom_19('Transition'); } function huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransforms3d_19() { return huge_it_testDom_19('Perspective'); } function huge_it_testDom_19(prop) { // Browser vendor CSS prefixes. var browserVendors = ['', '-webkit-', '-moz-', '-ms-', '-o-', '-khtml-']; // Browser vendor DOM prefixes. var domPrefixes = ['', 'Webkit', 'Moz', 'ms', 'O', 'Khtml']; var i = domPrefixes.length; while (i--) { if (typeof document.body.style[domPrefixes[i] + prop] !== 'undefined') { return true; } } return false; } function huge_it_cube_19(tz, ntx, nty, nrx, nry, wrx, wry, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { /* If browser does not support 3d transforms/CSS transitions.*/ if (!huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransitions_19()) { jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_19 + "_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19"); return huge_it_fallback_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } if (!huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransforms3d_19()) { return huge_it_fallback3d_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } jQuery(current_image_class).css({'z-index': 'none'}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'z-index' : 2}); huge_it_trans_in_progress_19 = true; /* Set active thumbnail.*/ jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_19 + "_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19"); jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_19").css('perspective', 1000); jQuery(current_image_class).css({ transform : 'translateZ(' + tz + 'px)', backfaceVisibility : 'hidden' }); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_19,.huge_it_slide_bg_19,.huge_it_slideshow_image_item_19,.huge_it_slideshow_image_second_item_19 ").css('overflow', 'visible'); jQuery(next_image_class).css({ opacity : 1, filter: 'Alpha(opacity=100)', backfaceVisibility : 'hidden', transform : 'translateY(' + nty + 'px) translateX(' + ntx + 'px) rotateY('+ nry +'deg) rotateX('+ nrx +'deg)' }); jQuery(".huge_it_slider_19").css({ transform: 'translateZ(-' + tz + 'px)', transformStyle: 'preserve-3d' }); /* Execution steps.*/ setTimeout(function () { jQuery(".huge_it_slider_19").css({ transition: 'all ' + huge_it_transition_duration_19 + 'ms ease-in-out', transform: 'translateZ(-' + tz + 'px) rotateX('+ wrx +'deg) rotateY('+ wry +'deg)' }); }, 20); /* After transition.*/ jQuery(".huge_it_slider_19").one('webkitTransitionEnd transitionend otransitionend oTransitionEnd mstransitionend', jQuery.proxy(huge_it_after_trans)); function huge_it_after_trans() { jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_19,.huge_it_slideshow_image_item_19,.huge_it_slideshow_image_second_item_19 ").css('overflow', 'hidden'); jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_19").removeAttr('style'); jQuery(current_image_class).removeAttr('style'); jQuery(next_image_class).removeAttr('style'); jQuery(".huge_it_slider_19").removeAttr('style'); // alert(current_image_class+' '+next_image_class); jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, filter: 'Alpha(opacity=0)', 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, filter: 'Alpha(opacity=100)', 'z-index' : 2}); // huge_it_change_watermark_container_19(); huge_it_trans_in_progress_19 = false; if (typeof event_stack_19 !== 'undefined' && event_stack_19.length > 0) { key = event_stack_19[0].split("-"); event_stack_19.shift(); huge_it_change_image_19(key[0], key[1], data_19, true,false); } } } function huge_it_cubeH_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { /* Set to half of image width.*/ var dimension = jQuery(current_image_class).width() / 2; if (direction == 'right') { huge_it_cube_19(dimension, dimension, 0, 0, 90, 0, -90, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else if (direction == 'left') { huge_it_cube_19(dimension, -dimension, 0, 0, -90, 0, 90, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } } function huge_it_cubeV_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { /* Set to half of image height.*/ var dimension = jQuery(current_image_class).height() / 2; /* If next slide.*/ if (direction == 'right') { huge_it_cube_19(dimension, 0, -dimension, 90, 0, -90, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else if (direction == 'left') { huge_it_cube_19(dimension, 0, dimension, -90, 0, 90, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } } /* For browsers that does not support transitions.*/ function huge_it_fallback_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_fade_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } /* For browsers that support transitions, but not 3d transforms (only used if primary transition makes use of 3d-transforms).*/ function huge_it_fallback3d_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_sliceV_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_none_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, 'z-index' : 2}); /* Set active thumbnail.*/ jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_19 + "_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19"); } function huge_it_fade_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransitions_19()) { jQuery(next_image_class).css('transition', 'opacity ' + huge_it_transition_duration_19 + 'ms linear'); jQuery(current_image_class).css('transition', 'opacity ' + huge_it_transition_duration_19 + 'ms linear'); jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, 'z-index' : 2}); } else { jQuery(current_image_class).animate({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index' : 1}, huge_it_transition_duration_19); jQuery(next_image_class).animate({ 'opacity' : 1, 'z-index': 2 }, { duration: huge_it_transition_duration_19, complete: function () {return false;} }); // For IE. jQuery(current_image_class).fadeTo(huge_it_transition_duration_19, 0); jQuery(next_image_class).fadeTo(huge_it_transition_duration_19, 1); } jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_19 + "_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19"); } function huge_it_grid_19(cols, rows, ro, tx, ty, sc, op, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { /* If browser does not support CSS transitions.*/ if (!huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransitions_19()) { jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_19 + "_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19"); return huge_it_fallback_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } huge_it_trans_in_progress_19 = true; /* Set active thumbnail.*/ jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_19 + "_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19"); /* The time (in ms) added to/subtracted from the delay total for each new gridlet.*/ var count = (huge_it_transition_duration_19) / (cols + rows); /* Gridlet creator (divisions of the image grid, positioned with background-images to replicate the look of an entire slide image when assembled)*/ function huge_it_gridlet(width, height, top, img_top, left, img_left, src, imgWidth, imgHeight, c, r) { var delay = (c + r) * count; /* Return a gridlet elem with styles for specific transition.*/ return jQuery('
').css({ width : width, height : height, top : top, left : left, backgroundImage : 'url("' + src + '")', backgroundColor: jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_19").css("background-color"), /*backgroundColor: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0),*/ backgroundRepeat: 'no-repeat', backgroundPosition : img_left + 'px ' + img_top + 'px', backgroundSize : imgWidth + 'px ' + imgHeight + 'px', transition : 'all ' + huge_it_transition_duration_19 + 'ms ease-in-out ' + delay + 'ms', transform : 'none' }); } /* Get the current slide's image.*/ var cur_img = jQuery(current_image_class).find('img'); /* Create a grid to hold the gridlets.*/ var grid = jQuery('
').addClass('huge_it_grid_19'); /* Prepend the grid to the next slide (i.e. so it's above the slide image).*/ jQuery(current_image_class).prepend(grid); /* vars to calculate positioning/size of gridlets*/ var cont = jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_19"); var imgWidth = cur_img.width(); var imgHeight = cur_img.height(); var contWidth = cont.width(), contHeight = cont.height(), imgSrc = cur_img.attr('src'),/*.replace('/thumb', ''),*/ colWidth = Math.floor(contWidth / cols), rowHeight = Math.floor(contHeight / rows), colRemainder = contWidth - (cols * colWidth), colAdd = Math.ceil(colRemainder / cols), rowRemainder = contHeight - (rows * rowHeight), rowAdd = Math.ceil(rowRemainder / rows), leftDist = 0, img_leftDist = (jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_19").width() - cur_img.width()) / 2; /* tx/ty args can be passed as 'auto'/'min-auto' (meaning use slide width/height or negative slide width/height).*/ tx = tx === 'auto' ? contWidth : tx; tx = tx === 'min-auto' ? - contWidth : tx; ty = ty === 'auto' ? contHeight : ty; ty = ty === 'min-auto' ? - contHeight : ty; /* Loop through cols*/ for (var i = 0; i 0) { var add = colRemainder >= colAdd ? colAdd : colRemainder; newColWidth += add; colRemainder -= add; } /* Nested loop to create row gridlets for each col.*/ for (var j = 0; j 0) { add = newRowRemainder >= rowAdd ? rowAdd : rowRemainder; newRowHeight += add; newRowRemainder -= add; } /* Create & append gridlet to grid.*/ grid.append(huge_it_gridlet(newColWidth, newRowHeight, topDist, img_topDst, leftDist, img_leftDist, imgSrc, imgWidth, imgHeight, i, j)); topDist += newRowHeight; img_topDst -= newRowHeight; } img_leftDist -= newColWidth; leftDist += newColWidth; } /* Set event listener on last gridlet to finish transitioning.*/ var last_gridlet = grid.children().last(); /* Show grid & hide the image it replaces.*/ grid.show(); cur_img.css('opacity', 0); /* Add identifying classes to corner gridlets (useful if applying border radius).*/ grid.children().first().addClass('rs-top-left'); grid.children().last().addClass('rs-bottom-right'); grid.children().eq(rows - 1).addClass('rs-bottom-left'); grid.children().eq(- rows).addClass('rs-top-right'); /* Execution steps.*/ setTimeout(function () { grid.children().css({ opacity: op, transform: 'rotate('+ ro +'deg) translateX('+ tx +'px) translateY('+ ty +'px) scale('+ sc +')' }); }, 1); jQuery(next_image_class).css('opacity', 1); /* After transition.*/ jQuery(last_gridlet).one('webkitTransitionEnd transitionend otransitionend oTransitionEnd mstransitionend', jQuery.proxy(huge_it_after_trans)); function huge_it_after_trans() { jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, 'z-index' : 2}); cur_img.css('opacity', 1); grid.remove(); huge_it_trans_in_progress_19 = false; if (typeof event_stack_19 !== 'undefined' && event_stack_19.length > 0) { key = event_stack_19[0].split("-"); event_stack_19.shift(); huge_it_change_image_19(key[0], key[1], data_19, true,false); } } } function huge_it_sliceH_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_19(1, 8, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_sliceV_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_19(10, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideV_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } huge_it_grid_19(1, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideH_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_19(1, 1, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleOut_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 1.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleIn_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blockScale_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(8, 6, 0, 0, 0, .6, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_kaleidoscope_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(10, 8, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_fan_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var rotate = 45; var translateX = 100; } else if (direction == 'left') { var rotate = -45; var translateX = -100; } huge_it_grid_19(1, 10, rotate, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blindV_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(1, 8, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_blindH_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(10, 1, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_random_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { var anims = ['sliceH', 'sliceV', 'slideH', 'slideV', 'scaleOut', 'scaleIn', 'blockScale', 'kaleidoscope', 'fan', 'blindH', 'blindV']; /* Pick a random transition from the anims array.*/ this["huge_it_" + anims[Math.floor(Math.random() * anims.length)] + "_19"](current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function iterator_19() { return 1; } function huge_it_change_image_19(current_key, key, data_19, from_effect, clicked) { if (data_19[key]) { if (!from_effect) { // Change image key. jQuery("#huge_it_current_image_key_19").val(key); current_key = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").attr("data-image_key"); } if (huge_it_trans_in_progress_19) { event_stack_19.push(current_key + '-' + key); return; } var direction = 'right'; if (huge_it_current_key_19 > key) { direction = 'left'; } else if (huge_it_current_key_19 == key) { return false; } // Set active thumbnail position. huge_it_current_key_19 = key; jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_19").attr('data-image_id', data_19[key]["id"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_title_text_19").html(data_19[key]["alt"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_description_text_19").html(data_19[key]["description"]); var current_image_class = "#image_id_19_" + data_19[current_key]["id"]; var next_image_class = "#image_id_19_" + data_19[key]["id"]; if (jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_video_frame_19').length > 0) { var streffect = 'fade'; if (streffect == "cubeV" || streffect == "cubeH" || streffect == "none" || streffect == "fade") { huge_it_fade_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else { huge_it_fade_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); 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Di sfilati siciliani, macramè, uncinetto e tombolo, Domenico Dolce e Stefano Gabbana, ne hanno fatto un must-have: non a caso, il pizzo nero che ha reso celebre il loro fasciante tubino, ritorna immediatamente al pensiero quando si pronuncia la parola dentelle.

Simbolo-f-p-R

PIZZI E MERLETTI. “DIETRO UNA FINESTRA DI RINGHIERA”

 

Venera-Coco-Rossa

Quegli arabeschi che ricordavano l’estro creativo di artigiani capaci di lavorare la ceramica, il legno e la creta. 
In fondo si trattava di rendere quel filo, simile ad una scultura, applicando di certo una paziente maestria, che quelle donne sapevano realizzare attraverso il ripetere di gesti uguali, come se cantassero una nenia di cui conoscevano a memoria le parole.
Quei rufoli realizzati, punto dopo punto, in un’armoniosa alternanza di pieni e vuoti, rendevano preziose le tovaglie e le vesti.

Le mani nervose, dentro i cortili, hanno intrecciato per secoli quel filo semplice e innocuo che attraverso giri e acrobazie tesseva miracolosamente arabeschi da applicare alle stoffe e renderle così leggiadre.

Trine e pizzi spesso simili a pietra lavica che raffreddandosi hanno trattenuto a sé l’aria azzurra e il profumo delle ginestre.

Gli abiti di Marras trasudano eccentricità e ruotano intorno a stratificazioni e incrostazioni di tessuti e ricami che, raccontando la storia travagliata della propria terra, in un succedersi di contaminazioni e culture, la rendono simile a roccia sedimentaria.

Ancora in Sicilia si lavorano i merletti e il compito è affidato alle donne più anziane, che si trovano chine sui piccoli e tondi telai. 
Nei pomeriggi d’estate, i cortili delle case antiche diventano le loro dimore preferite al riparo dalla calura estiva. Da “dietro una finestra di ringhiera”, come canta Battiato in “Mal d’Africa”, fino alle grandi multinazionali del lusso, il passaggio è breve: gli stilemi del passato si attualizzano per cedere il posto a versioni più contemporanee.

Fluido, magmatico e indimenticabile, come il fuoco che fuoriesce dall’Etna, lo scorrere delle modelle (alla fine della sfilata fall/winter 2013-2014) che trattengono sui loro corpi l’arroganza di lava incandescente sulla quale jais e strass brillano come lapilli. I lavori di esperte ricamatrici incantano anche la stilista milanese Luisa Beccaria, che ereditata dal marito, nobile Bonaccorsi di Reburdone, quell’attitude prettamente siciliana, realizza abiti neo-romantici in stile preraffaellita, in sangallo e macramè, ma anche gonne a ruota con tramezzi in pizzo.

Rigonfi di crinoline, gli evening gown in taffettà sono vere opere d’arte rinascimentali, leggeri e trasparenti sanno come mettere in risalto lavorazioni laboriose e merletti in filigrana.

Ad Alghero, ancora, nella Sardegna di Antonio Marras i merletti sono un caposaldo della cultura isolana. Nella cifra stilistica del designer c’è stato e probabilmente ci sarà sempre posto per tombolo, filet di Bosa, ricami e altre manualità che fanno parte del baluardo tipico dell’artigianato sardo.

Se per molto tempo si è tentato di dare leggerezza agli abiti, di renderli così impalpabili come cristalli di zucchero attraverso pizzi e merletti, non si può dimenticare che quell’effetto è il risultato di un lavoro sapiente e minuzioso, che nasconde al suo interno idee e geometrie di chi riesce a creare con molto poco nuvole di siffatta bellezza.

ITA | FR