LE ARCHITETTURE MEDITERRANEE DIVENTANO ORDITO di Venera Coco – Numero 2 – Ottobre 2015

art_coco-copertina (1)
cat-cultura
cat-arte
cat-stile
Gli-stilisti

Scostare il tessuto e scoprire la carnagione del Sud che ha assorbito, nella pelle e nella sabbia, tutta l’arsura di un sole indifferente al dolore, è la scoperta che alcuni stilisti hanno provato a raccontare. Stilisti che, attingendo dallo stupore dei loro sguardi, per creare invenzioni stilistiche, reinterpretano gli antichi fasti e gli intarsi che abili maestranze avevano creato per le chiese, le moschee e i palazzi.

var pausehover="on"; var huge_video_playing={}; var autoplayMatch={}; var scrolling; var ifhasthumb ="nonav"; scrolling = pausehover != 'on'; jQuery(window).load(function(){ if(!/Android|webOS|iPhone|iPad|iPod|BlackBerry|IEMobile|Opera Mini/i.test(navigator.userAgent)) setTimeout(function(){ jQuery('.huge_it_slide_container_12').mouseleave(); }, 10); }); var YTdeferred = jQuery.Deferred(); window.onYouTubeIframeAPIReady = function() { //resolve when youtube callback is called passing YT as a parameter YTdeferred.resolve(window.YT); }; YTdeferred.done(function(YT) { jQuery('.huge-it-iframe').each(function(){ var el_id = jQuery(this).attr('data-element-id'); var volume = HUGEIT_YT_IFRAMES['iframe'+el_id]['volume']; window['onPlayerReady'+el_id] = function(event) { window['player_'+el_id]['setVolume'](volume); } }); jQuery('.huge-it-iframe').each(function(){ var id = jQuery(this).attr('id'); var el_id = jQuery(this).attr('data-element-id'); var controls = HUGEIT_YT_IFRAMES['iframe'+el_id]['controls']; var showinfo = HUGEIT_YT_IFRAMES['iframe'+el_id]['showinfo']; var url = HUGEIT_YT_IFRAMES['iframe'+el_id]['videoId']; controls||(controls = 0); showinfo||(showinfo = 0); window['player_'+el_id] = new YT.Player(id, { height: '600', width: '900', videoId: url, playerVars: { 'controls': controls, 'showinfo': showinfo, 'rel':0 }, events: { 'onError': window['onPlayerError'+el_id], 'onReady': window['onPlayerReady'+el_id], 'onStateChange': window['onPlayerStateChange'+el_id], 'loop':1 } }); }) }); jQuery(function(){ jQuery('.huge-it-iframe').each(function(){ var el_id = jQuery(this).attr('data-element-id'); var quality = HUGEIT_YT_IFRAMES['iframe'+el_id]['quality']; window['onPlayerStateChange'+el_id] = function(event) { if (event.data == YT.PlayerState.PLAYING) { HUGEIT_YT_IFRAMES['iframe'+el_id]['state']='played'; event.target.setPlaybackQuality(quality); } } }); }); function stopYoutubeVideo(currentVideo,nextVideo) { if(currentVideo) { (HUGEIT_YT_IFRAMES['iframe'+currentVideo]['state'])?currentVideo&&(window['player_'+currentVideo]['pauseVideo']()):currentVideo&&(window['player_'+currentVideo]['stopVideo']()); } nextVideo&&HUGEIT_YT_IFRAMES['iframe'+nextVideo]['autoplay']&&(window['player_'+nextVideo]['playVideo']()); } function stopVimeoVideo(currentVideo,nextVideo){ jQuery(currentVideo).vimeo('pause'); jQuery(nextVideo).vimeo('play'); } /*** initialize And youtube autopay ***/ jQuery( window ).load(function() { (function VimeoOptionsReady(){ //calling funtion once jQuery('.huge-it-iframe-vimeo').each(function(){ var el_id = jQuery(this).attr('data-element-id'); jQuery(this).vimeo('setColor',HUGEIT_VIMEOS['iframe'+el_id]['color']); jQuery(this).vimeo('setVolume',HUGEIT_VIMEOS['iframe'+el_id]['volume']); }) }()); if('off' == 'on') { if(jQuery('.huge-it-iframe-vimeo.autoplay').length) { (function AutoplayVimeo() { var setplayVideo = setInterval(hugeitframe, 100); function hugeitframe() { var vimeo1 = jQuery('.huge_it_slider_12 li').first().find('.autoplay') if(vimeo1.length) { vimeo1.vimeo('play'); clearInterval(setplayVideo); } } }()); } if(jQuery('.huge-it-iframe.autoplay').length) { (function AutoplayYoutube() { var setplayVideo = setInterval(hugeitframe, 100); function hugeitframe() { jQuery('.huge-it-iframe.autoplay').each(function(){ var el_id = jQuery(this).attr('data-element-id'); if(window['player_'+el_id]) { window['player_'+el_id]['playVideo'](); clearInterval(setplayVideo); } }); } }()); } } }); /*** initialize***/ <!-- --> jQuery(document).ready(function() { jQuery('.thumb_wrapper').on('click', function(ev) { var myid = jQuery(this).data('rowid'); myid = parseInt(myid); eval('player_' + myid + '.playVideo()'); ev.preventDefault(); }); }); if(typeof sliderID_array =="undefined") { var sliderID_array=[]; } var data_12 = []; var event_stack_12 = []; data_12["0"]=[];data_12["0"]["id"]="0";data_12["0"]["image_url"]="https://www.myrrha.it/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/art_coco-1-2.jpg";data_12["0"]["description"]="";data_12["0"]["alt"]="";data_12["1"]=[];data_12["1"]["id"]="1";data_12["1"]["image_url"]="https://www.myrrha.it/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/art_coco-2-2.jpg";data_12["1"]["description"]="";data_12["1"]["alt"]="";data_12["2"]=[];data_12["2"]["id"]="2";data_12["2"]["image_url"]="https://www.myrrha.it/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/art_coco-3-3.jpg";data_12["2"]["description"]="";data_12["2"]["alt"]="";data_12["3"]=[];data_12["3"]["id"]="3";data_12["3"]["image_url"]="https://www.myrrha.it/wp-content/uploads/2017/03/art_coco-4-3.jpg";data_12["3"]["description"]="";data_12["3"]["alt"]=""; var huge_it_trans_in_progress_12 = false; var huge_it_transition_duration_12 = 1000; var huge_interval = {}; var id_array_index = sliderID_array.length; sliderID_array[id_array_index] = // Stop autoplay. window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+12]); var huge_it_current_key_12 = ''; function huge_it_move_dots_12() { var image_left = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12").position().left; var image_right = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12").position().left + jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12").outerWidth(true); } function huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransitions_12() { return huge_it_testDom_12('Transition'); } function huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransforms3d_12() { return huge_it_testDom_12('Perspective'); } function huge_it_testDom_12(prop) { // Browser vendor CSS prefixes. var browserVendors = ['', '-webkit-', '-moz-', '-ms-', '-o-', '-khtml-']; // Browser vendor DOM prefixes. var domPrefixes = ['', 'Webkit', 'Moz', 'ms', 'O', 'Khtml']; var i = domPrefixes.length; while (i--) { if (typeof document.body.style[domPrefixes[i] + prop] !== 'undefined') { return true; } } return false; } function huge_it_cube_12(tz, ntx, nty, nrx, nry, wrx, wry, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { /* If browser does not support 3d transforms/CSS transitions.*/ if (!huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransitions_12()) { jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_12 + "_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12"); return huge_it_fallback_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } if (!huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransforms3d_12()) { return huge_it_fallback3d_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } jQuery(current_image_class).css({'z-index': 'none'}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'z-index' : 2}); huge_it_trans_in_progress_12 = true; /* Set active thumbnail.*/ jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_12 + "_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12"); jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_12").css('perspective', 1000); jQuery(current_image_class).css({ transform : 'translateZ(' + tz + 'px)', backfaceVisibility : 'hidden' }); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_12,.huge_it_slide_bg_12,.huge_it_slideshow_image_item_12,.huge_it_slideshow_image_second_item_12 ").css('overflow', 'visible'); jQuery(next_image_class).css({ opacity : 1, filter: 'Alpha(opacity=100)', backfaceVisibility : 'hidden', transform : 'translateY(' + nty + 'px) translateX(' + ntx + 'px) rotateY('+ nry +'deg) rotateX('+ nrx +'deg)' }); jQuery(".huge_it_slider_12").css({ transform: 'translateZ(-' + tz + 'px)', transformStyle: 'preserve-3d' }); /* Execution steps.*/ setTimeout(function () { jQuery(".huge_it_slider_12").css({ transition: 'all ' + huge_it_transition_duration_12 + 'ms ease-in-out', transform: 'translateZ(-' + tz + 'px) rotateX('+ wrx +'deg) rotateY('+ wry +'deg)' }); }, 20); /* After transition.*/ jQuery(".huge_it_slider_12").one('webkitTransitionEnd transitionend otransitionend oTransitionEnd mstransitionend', jQuery.proxy(huge_it_after_trans)); function huge_it_after_trans() { jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_12,.huge_it_slideshow_image_item_12,.huge_it_slideshow_image_second_item_12 ").css('overflow', 'hidden'); jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_12").removeAttr('style'); jQuery(current_image_class).removeAttr('style'); jQuery(next_image_class).removeAttr('style'); jQuery(".huge_it_slider_12").removeAttr('style'); // alert(current_image_class+' '+next_image_class); jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, filter: 'Alpha(opacity=0)', 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, filter: 'Alpha(opacity=100)', 'z-index' : 2}); // huge_it_change_watermark_container_12(); huge_it_trans_in_progress_12 = false; if (typeof event_stack_12 !== 'undefined' && event_stack_12.length > 0) { key = event_stack_12[0].split("-"); event_stack_12.shift(); huge_it_change_image_12(key[0], key[1], data_12, true,false); } } } function huge_it_cubeH_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { /* Set to half of image width.*/ var dimension = jQuery(current_image_class).width() / 2; if (direction == 'right') { huge_it_cube_12(dimension, dimension, 0, 0, 90, 0, -90, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else if (direction == 'left') { huge_it_cube_12(dimension, -dimension, 0, 0, -90, 0, 90, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } } function huge_it_cubeV_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { /* Set to half of image height.*/ var dimension = jQuery(current_image_class).height() / 2; /* If next slide.*/ if (direction == 'right') { huge_it_cube_12(dimension, 0, -dimension, 90, 0, -90, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else if (direction == 'left') { huge_it_cube_12(dimension, 0, dimension, -90, 0, 90, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } } /* For browsers that does not support transitions.*/ function huge_it_fallback_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_fade_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } /* For browsers that support transitions, but not 3d transforms (only used if primary transition makes use of 3d-transforms).*/ function huge_it_fallback3d_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_sliceV_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_none_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, 'z-index' : 2}); /* Set active thumbnail.*/ jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_12 + "_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12"); } function huge_it_fade_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransitions_12()) { jQuery(next_image_class).css('transition', 'opacity ' + huge_it_transition_duration_12 + 'ms linear'); jQuery(current_image_class).css('transition', 'opacity ' + huge_it_transition_duration_12 + 'ms linear'); jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, 'z-index' : 2}); } else { jQuery(current_image_class).animate({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index' : 1}, huge_it_transition_duration_12); jQuery(next_image_class).animate({ 'opacity' : 1, 'z-index': 2 }, { duration: huge_it_transition_duration_12, complete: function () {return false;} }); // For IE. jQuery(current_image_class).fadeTo(huge_it_transition_duration_12, 0); jQuery(next_image_class).fadeTo(huge_it_transition_duration_12, 1); } jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_12 + "_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12"); } function huge_it_grid_12(cols, rows, ro, tx, ty, sc, op, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { /* If browser does not support CSS transitions.*/ if (!huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransitions_12()) { jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_12 + "_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12"); return huge_it_fallback_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } huge_it_trans_in_progress_12 = true; /* Set active thumbnail.*/ jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_12 + "_12").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_12").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12"); /* The time (in ms) added to/subtracted from the delay total for each new gridlet.*/ var count = (huge_it_transition_duration_12) / (cols + rows); /* Gridlet creator (divisions of the image grid, positioned with background-images to replicate the look of an entire slide image when assembled)*/ function huge_it_gridlet(width, height, top, img_top, left, img_left, src, imgWidth, imgHeight, c, r) { var delay = (c + r) * count; /* Return a gridlet elem with styles for specific transition.*/ return jQuery('
').css({ width : width, height : height, top : top, left : left, backgroundImage : 'url("' + src + '")', backgroundColor: jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_12").css("background-color"), /*backgroundColor: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0),*/ backgroundRepeat: 'no-repeat', backgroundPosition : img_left + 'px ' + img_top + 'px', backgroundSize : imgWidth + 'px ' + imgHeight + 'px', transition : 'all ' + huge_it_transition_duration_12 + 'ms ease-in-out ' + delay + 'ms', transform : 'none' }); } /* Get the current slide's image.*/ var cur_img = jQuery(current_image_class).find('img'); /* Create a grid to hold the gridlets.*/ var grid = jQuery('
').addClass('huge_it_grid_12'); /* Prepend the grid to the next slide (i.e. so it's above the slide image).*/ jQuery(current_image_class).prepend(grid); /* vars to calculate positioning/size of gridlets*/ var cont = jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_12"); var imgWidth = cur_img.width(); var imgHeight = cur_img.height(); var contWidth = cont.width(), contHeight = cont.height(), imgSrc = cur_img.attr('src'),/*.replace('/thumb', ''),*/ colWidth = Math.floor(contWidth / cols), rowHeight = Math.floor(contHeight / rows), colRemainder = contWidth - (cols * colWidth), colAdd = Math.ceil(colRemainder / cols), rowRemainder = contHeight - (rows * rowHeight), rowAdd = Math.ceil(rowRemainder / rows), leftDist = 0, img_leftDist = (jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_12").width() - cur_img.width()) / 2; /* tx/ty args can be passed as 'auto'/'min-auto' (meaning use slide width/height or negative slide width/height).*/ tx = tx === 'auto' ? contWidth : tx; tx = tx === 'min-auto' ? - contWidth : tx; ty = ty === 'auto' ? contHeight : ty; ty = ty === 'min-auto' ? - contHeight : ty; /* Loop through cols*/ for (var i = 0; i 0) { var add = colRemainder >= colAdd ? colAdd : colRemainder; newColWidth += add; colRemainder -= add; } /* Nested loop to create row gridlets for each col.*/ for (var j = 0; j 0) { add = newRowRemainder >= rowAdd ? rowAdd : rowRemainder; newRowHeight += add; newRowRemainder -= add; } /* Create & append gridlet to grid.*/ grid.append(huge_it_gridlet(newColWidth, newRowHeight, topDist, img_topDst, leftDist, img_leftDist, imgSrc, imgWidth, imgHeight, i, j)); topDist += newRowHeight; img_topDst -= newRowHeight; } img_leftDist -= newColWidth; leftDist += newColWidth; } /* Set event listener on last gridlet to finish transitioning.*/ var last_gridlet = grid.children().last(); /* Show grid & hide the image it replaces.*/ grid.show(); cur_img.css('opacity', 0); /* Add identifying classes to corner gridlets (useful if applying border radius).*/ grid.children().first().addClass('rs-top-left'); grid.children().last().addClass('rs-bottom-right'); grid.children().eq(rows - 1).addClass('rs-bottom-left'); grid.children().eq(- rows).addClass('rs-top-right'); /* Execution steps.*/ setTimeout(function () { grid.children().css({ opacity: op, transform: 'rotate('+ ro +'deg) translateX('+ tx +'px) translateY('+ ty +'px) scale('+ sc +')' }); }, 1); jQuery(next_image_class).css('opacity', 1); /* After transition.*/ jQuery(last_gridlet).one('webkitTransitionEnd transitionend otransitionend oTransitionEnd mstransitionend', jQuery.proxy(huge_it_after_trans)); function huge_it_after_trans() { jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, 'z-index' : 2}); cur_img.css('opacity', 1); grid.remove(); huge_it_trans_in_progress_12 = false; if (typeof event_stack_12 !== 'undefined' && event_stack_12.length > 0) { key = event_stack_12[0].split("-"); event_stack_12.shift(); huge_it_change_image_12(key[0], key[1], data_12, true,false); } } } function huge_it_sliceH_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_12(1, 8, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_sliceV_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_12(10, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideV_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } huge_it_grid_12(1, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideH_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_12(1, 1, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleOut_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_12(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 1.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleIn_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_12(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blockScale_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_12(8, 6, 0, 0, 0, .6, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_kaleidoscope_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_12(10, 8, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_fan_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var rotate = 45; var translateX = 100; } else if (direction == 'left') { var rotate = -45; var translateX = -100; } huge_it_grid_12(1, 10, rotate, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blindV_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_12(1, 8, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_blindH_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_12(10, 1, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_random_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { var anims = ['sliceH', 'sliceV', 'slideH', 'slideV', 'scaleOut', 'scaleIn', 'blockScale', 'kaleidoscope', 'fan', 'blindH', 'blindV']; /* Pick a random transition from the anims array.*/ this["huge_it_" + anims[Math.floor(Math.random() * anims.length)] + "_12"](current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function iterator_12() { return 1; } function huge_it_change_image_12(current_key, key, data_12, from_effect, clicked) { if (data_12[key]) { if (!from_effect) { // Change image key. jQuery("#huge_it_current_image_key_12").val(key); current_key = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_12").attr("data-image_key"); } if (huge_it_trans_in_progress_12) { event_stack_12.push(current_key + '-' + key); return; } var direction = 'right'; if (huge_it_current_key_12 > key) { direction = 'left'; } else if (huge_it_current_key_12 == key) { return false; } // Set active thumbnail position. huge_it_current_key_12 = key; jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_12").attr('data-image_id', data_12[key]["id"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_title_text_12").html(data_12[key]["alt"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_description_text_12").html(data_12[key]["description"]); var current_image_class = "#image_id_12_" + data_12[current_key]["id"]; var next_image_class = "#image_id_12_" + data_12[key]["id"]; if (jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_video_frame_12').length > 0) { var streffect = 'fade'; if (streffect == "cubeV" || streffect == "cubeH" || streffect == "none" || streffect == "fade") { huge_it_fade_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else { huge_it_fade_12(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); 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Un vero e proprio eden, fatto di centinaia di piante provenienti da cinque continenti, piccoli ruscelli e costruzioni in stile moresco e Art Déco. Sedotto da “quest’oasi in cui i colori di Matisse si mescolano a quelli della natura”, lo stilista algerino trova la fonte d’ispirazione per i suoi preziosi caftani, come la djellaba, la tunica lunga con il cappuccio a punta, il jabador e il mantello burnus. Anche il designer franco-tunisino Azzedine Alaïa con la sua cosiddetta “soft sculpture”, fa rivivere sui suoi abiti la scultura soffice della stoffa da domare. L’architettura “arabisance” non viene rispettata alla lettera da Azzedine ma ciò che si capta immediatamente è quello speciale attaccamento all’essenzialità delle strutture berbere e al bianco, simbolo di rigore e purezza. I suoi abiti si avvicinano silenziosamente all’ambiente che li circonda, amalgamandosi ad esso. Le pieghe scolpite da Alaïa sono le stesse che il vento del deserto scava nella roccia, diventando anse nel corpo delle donne.

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LE ARCHITETTURE MEDITERRANEE DIVENTANO ORDITO

 

Venera-Coco-Rossa

Si tratta di creazioni nelle quali i colori riescono a riprodurre i toni della natura, gli accostamenti caldi e prorompenti che riportano alla memoria le luci abbaglianti di un territorio dalle stanche membra, che cede sia alla calura che all’incanto.

Svolazzi che diventano geometrie e che, pur mantenendo il rigore delle forme, si ritrovano intrappolati in un gioco di armonia.

Ed ecco che Yves Saint Laurent è riuscito a contaminare i suoi capi con i vividi colori del suo Giardino Majorelle a Marrakech.

A Cristóbal Balenciaga, invece, piaceva reinterpretare stili appartenenti ad epoche passate della storia spagnola

per poi arricchire le proprie collezioni, non a caso l’“Infanta”, s’ispira agli abiti ritratti da Diego Velázquez nei dipinti della principessa Margherita, e nella “Jacket of light”, si ritrovano i bolero dei toreri spagnoli. Nato a Getaria, ha interiorizzato la sua Spagna estrapolando elementi caratteristici del suo paese come il pizzo, il bolero e il contrasto tra rosso e nero. “The queen of textures”, così viene definita la stilista greca Mary Katrantzou, ha reso i suoi abiti strutturati una tela per stampe visionarie e dall’effetto trompe l’œil. La sua Atene rivive nella tridimensionalità e nelle forme geometriche, ma anche nei collage digitali che ripropongono i colori vivaci e i fregi mitologici che un tempo adornavano le sale dei templi greci. Appassionati di una delle tre Gorgoni, Medusa, e amanti del culto ellenico,

i reggini Gianni e Donatella Versace, dal 1978 ad oggi, danno vita a una libera commistione di elementi decorativi che vanno dalla Magna Grecia, al Barocco, fino alla Pop Art.

Il past forward diventa per loro una forma di sperimentazione, mescolando elementi couture a drappi da vestali, ma anche nuovi materiali, come pelle, maglia e minuteria metallica rigorosamente color oro e coloratissime sete stampate su cui sono impresse greche d’ordine corinzio e riccioli rococò. Il libanese Elie Saab, infine, ricrea su stoffe ricercate come pizzo, seta e chiffon, ricami con perline, paillettes e cristalli, talvolta solo per impreziosire determinate parti, altre volte i tessuti utilizzati ne sono completamente ricoperti. Elie risente dell’arte del ricamo, sfoggiata per impreziosire i costumi tradizionali durante le danze popolari dabke e raqs sharki, per costruire ogni suo dettaglio prezioso, seguendo però un mood incredibilmente femminile, sensuale e mai eccessivo. Gli abiti d’haute couture di Saab nascondono

bagliori lucenti color oro simili a quelli che rendono le danzatrici del ventre terre voluttuose di conquista.

I designer accostano quei pigmenti che ritrovano lo splendore di antichi popoli che lottavano per affermare la bellezza delle loro terre, abbellendole con pregiati intarsi, con maioliche, arabeschi e architetture simili ai luoghi del Corano. I tessuti si colorano dei toni del beige, dei marroni chiari, dei blu cobalto, dei silenzi, delle dune attraversate solo da un vento che scuote, con il proprio tormento, le vesti fascianti dei nomadi. Le collezioni nascono da queste terre e a questi luoghi ritornano per rendere uniche e pregevoli le movenze di chi si lascia catturare da uno stile che non teme confronti, perché sa che il Sud non è stato creato come un semplice luogo ma come archè divino.