IL VAL DI NOTO di Sergio Spatola – Numero 10 – Marzo 2018

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IL VAL DI NOTO

L’ 

Sergio-Spatola

Sembrerebbe un racconto dell’ultimo evento sismico che ha interessato, come troppe volte accaduto, il nostro Abruzzo (insieme a Umbria, Marche e Lazio), a parte forse per la frenesia ricostruttiva. Ma non si dimentichino le vittime, seppur eventi più recenti ce ne facciano piangere altre, della nostra Sicilia.

 

11 gennaio 1693. «Vide che alle due mezza improvvisamente rovinò tutta la città (…) e che durante il terremoto si era ritratto il mare di due tiri di schioppo e per la risacca conseguente aveva trascinato con sette tutte le imbarcazioni che erano ormeggiate in quell’insenatura […] State certi che non c’è penna
che possa riferire una tale sciagura»2.

 

Due terremoti – o due scosse dello stesso evento – e uno tsunami, tra il 9 e l’11 gennaio 1693, distrussero tutto il Val di Noto. Così, era definita la circoscrizione amministrativa che si occupò della giustizia, dell’erario e occasionalmente anche delle milizie del Regno di Sicilia dal periodo normanno alla sua abolizione nel 1812 e, dunque, l’area sud-orientale siciliana – individuata tra la provincia di Ragusa, di Siracusa e parte della provincia di Catania, di Enna e di Caltanissetta. 

 

Quello che ne seguì, ai tempi, fu un fervore costruttivo senza precedenti nell’intera penisola. Vuoi la devozione religiosa con la promessa salvezza dopo la vita terrena vuoi il rispetto per il sovrano che passava sei mesi a Palermo e sei mesi a Catania, scattò, negli uomini che allora avevano i mezzi procurati col prezzo dell’enorme divario sociale, la volontà di rialzarsi e di esprimere – dopo l’immenso dolore per le perdite – la gioia della vita.

 

Il barocco siciliano e, in particolare, quello di Val di Noto, rappresenta lo sforzo, 

da un lato, ricostruttivo più riuscito della storia italiana quando si guarda a Catania, Ragusa, Modica e Scicli e, dall’altro, edificatorio, quando si pensa a Noto, 

Avola e Grammichele.

 

Infatti, mentre le prime città vennero «tirate su» dalle macerie, per Noto e Avola la storia fu ben diversa come dimostra lo sdoppiamento in «antica» e «barocca». È impossibile descrivere tutto il Val di Noto, e forse inutile, per l’offerta documentata e attenta di guide e siti che, giorno per giorno, si dedicano a rappresentarlo. Si può, invece, cercare di descriverne lo spirito. Il Val di Noto, infatti, rappresenta un «Viaggio» esso stesso, dove tra bellezze naturalistiche (Vendicari e le Gole dell’Alcantara, in primis), architettoniche (Noto, ma anche Catania, Scicli, Modica) ed enogastronomiche (per trovare qualcosa di veramente locale occorre riferirsi alla rosticceria tipica), si respira un’aria che elogia «all’indugio».

 

L’indugio. Nel documento di presentazione per la candidatura del Val di Noto 

a Capitale della Cultura 2020, esso è stato correttamente contestualizzato 

come «una specificità e un’anima che (…) si è riusciti 

a salvaguardare quasi intatta,

 

diventando oggi formidabile elemento dì attrazione per chi, colto e consapevole, è legato a una concezione del “Viaggio” radicalmente diversa dagli stanchi rituali del turismo di massa». 

 

Questo perché, se ti trovi sul Corso di Noto, in primavera, non troverai alcuno che voglia divorare la bellezza e magari perderla dietro il filtro del proprio smartphone, ma vedrai colui che, nella pasticceria davanti ad una granita, la mattina, oppure nel locale per un aperitivo, al tramonto, starà col naso all’insù per osservare tutt’intorno la caratteristica pietra color «oro tendente al rosa», chiedendosi il perché di un mancato trasferimento immediato. 

 

Questo «indugio» pervaderà il suo viaggio e penetrerà le sue ossa senza accorgersi che non sono gli abitanti ma il luogo a richiedere riflessione quieta. Modica, d’altronde, ti costringerà a rinunciare allo strumento tecnologico approntato per immortalarla. Il Duomo di San Giorgio infatti, sia per la ripida e incredibile scalinata sia per l’altezza, non ti consente di inquadrarne agevolmente la facciata. Prospettiva e equilibrio ne costituiscono il punto di forza. Potrai ammirarne la completa bellezza solo recandoti nella collina di fronte, al Belvedere, dove penserai di essere parte di un presepe.

 

Insomma, un vero e proprio viaggio dell’anima durante il quale riflettere 

sulle dinamiche contemporanee.

 

D’altronde, si sta ripensando il Val di Noto come un luogo dove «il processo di crescita e sviluppo non (è) fondato (…) sull’emulazione impacciata e dannosa di modelli estranei al territorio, ma, per la prima volta, sul riconoscimento e la piena consapevolezza del valore della specificità del proprio patrimonio materiale e immateriale»3

 

Incredibile. Quanto è vero. Ciò – mi dispiace contraddire i redattori del Dossier – non si applica al solo Val di Noto ma all’intero Sud, come Myrrha cerca di affermare, edizione dopo edizione, sostenendo che il nostro Meridione deve essere finalmente considerato attraverso la sua propria «eccellente specificità», da leggersi attraverso criteri che «il PIL non sa contare».

 

 

 

 

Altra distruzione, ancor peggiore della prima. Solidarietà per le vittime. Frenesia ricostruttiva.

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Relacion de lo refirio el Patron Marco Calapar que vino de Zaragoza. Augusta y Catania en Santa Cruz de Mesina en 15 del coriente mies de Enero de 1693. Citazione contenuta nel testo di Lucia Trigilia, 1693 – Illiade funesta – La ricostruzione delle città del Val di Noto, Palermo, Arbaldo Lombardi, 1994.

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').addClass('huge_it_grid_77'); /* Prepend the grid to the next slide (i.e. so it's above the slide image).*/ jQuery(current_image_class).prepend(grid); /* vars to calculate positioning/size of gridlets*/ var cont = jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_77"); var imgWidth = cur_img.width(); var imgHeight = cur_img.height(); var contWidth = cont.width(), contHeight = cont.height(), imgSrc = cur_img.attr('src'),/*.replace('/thumb', ''),*/ colWidth = Math.floor(contWidth / cols), rowHeight = Math.floor(contHeight / rows), colRemainder = contWidth - (cols * colWidth), colAdd = Math.ceil(colRemainder / cols), rowRemainder = contHeight - (rows * rowHeight), rowAdd = Math.ceil(rowRemainder / rows), leftDist = 0, img_leftDist = (jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_77").width() - cur_img.width()) / 2; /* tx/ty args can be passed as 'auto'/'min-auto' (meaning use slide width/height or negative slide width/height).*/ tx = tx === 'auto' ? contWidth : tx; tx = tx === 'min-auto' ? - contWidth : tx; ty = ty === 'auto' ? contHeight : ty; ty = ty === 'min-auto' ? - contHeight : ty; /* Loop through cols*/ for (var i = 0; i 0) { var add = colRemainder >= colAdd ? colAdd : colRemainder; newColWidth += add; colRemainder -= add; } /* Nested loop to create row gridlets for each col.*/ for (var j = 0; j 0) { add = newRowRemainder >= rowAdd ? rowAdd : rowRemainder; newRowHeight += add; newRowRemainder -= add; } /* Create & append gridlet to grid.*/ grid.append(huge_it_gridlet(newColWidth, newRowHeight, topDist, img_topDst, leftDist, img_leftDist, imgSrc, imgWidth, imgHeight, i, j)); topDist += newRowHeight; img_topDst -= newRowHeight; } img_leftDist -= newColWidth; leftDist += newColWidth; } /* Set event listener on last gridlet to finish transitioning.*/ var last_gridlet = grid.children().last(); /* Show grid & hide the image it replaces.*/ grid.show(); cur_img.css('opacity', 0); /* Add identifying classes to corner gridlets (useful if applying border radius).*/ grid.children().first().addClass('rs-top-left'); grid.children().last().addClass('rs-bottom-right'); grid.children().eq(rows - 1).addClass('rs-bottom-left'); grid.children().eq(- rows).addClass('rs-top-right'); /* Execution steps.*/ setTimeout(function () { grid.children().css({ opacity: op, transform: 'rotate('+ ro +'deg) translateX('+ tx +'px) translateY('+ ty +'px) scale('+ sc +')' }); }, 1); jQuery(next_image_class).css('opacity', 1); /* After transition.*/ jQuery(last_gridlet).one('webkitTransitionEnd transitionend otransitionend oTransitionEnd mstransitionend', jQuery.proxy(huge_it_after_trans)); function huge_it_after_trans() { jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, 'z-index' : 2}); cur_img.css('opacity', 1); grid.remove(); huge_it_trans_in_progress_77 = false; if (typeof event_stack_77 !== 'undefined' && event_stack_77.length > 0) { key = event_stack_77[0].split("-"); event_stack_77.shift(); huge_it_change_image_77(key[0], key[1], data_77, true,false); } } } function huge_it_sliceH_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_77(1, 8, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_sliceV_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_77(10, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideV_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } huge_it_grid_77(1, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideH_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_77(1, 1, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleOut_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_77(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 1.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleIn_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_77(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blockScale_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_77(8, 6, 0, 0, 0, .6, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_kaleidoscope_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_77(10, 8, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_fan_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var rotate = 45; var translateX = 100; } else if (direction == 'left') { var rotate = -45; var translateX = -100; } huge_it_grid_77(1, 10, rotate, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blindV_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_77(1, 8, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_blindH_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_77(10, 1, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_random_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { var anims = ['sliceH', 'sliceV', 'slideH', 'slideV', 'scaleOut', 'scaleIn', 'blockScale', 'kaleidoscope', 'fan', 'blindH', 'blindV']; /* Pick a random transition from the anims array.*/ this["huge_it_" + anims[Math.floor(Math.random() * anims.length)] + "_77"](current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function iterator_77() { return 1; } function huge_it_change_image_77(current_key, key, data_77, from_effect, clicked) { if (data_77[key]) { if (!from_effect) { // Change image key. jQuery("#huge_it_current_image_key_77").val(key); current_key = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_77").attr("data-image_key"); } if (huge_it_trans_in_progress_77) { event_stack_77.push(current_key + '-' + key); return; } var direction = 'right'; if (huge_it_current_key_77 > key) { direction = 'left'; } else if (huge_it_current_key_77 == key) { return false; } // Set active thumbnail position. huge_it_current_key_77 = key; jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_77").attr('data-image_id', data_77[key]["id"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_title_text_77").html(data_77[key]["alt"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_description_text_77").html(data_77[key]["description"]); var current_image_class = "#image_id_77_" + data_77[current_key]["id"]; var next_image_class = "#image_id_77_" + data_77[key]["id"]; if (jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_video_frame_77').length > 0) { var streffect = 'fade'; if (streffect == "cubeV" || streffect == "cubeH" || streffect == "none" || streffect == "fade") { huge_it_fade_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else { huge_it_fade_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } } else { huge_it_fade_77(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_77').removeClass('none'); if (jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_77').html() == "") { jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_77').addClass('none'); } jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_77').removeClass('none'); if (jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_77').html() == "") { jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_77').addClass('none'); } jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_77').addClass('none'); jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_77').addClass('none'); huge_it_move_dots_77(); /*** for vimeo and youtube stop pause play etc... ***/ var nextVideo = jQuery('#video_id_77_' + key).attr('data-element-id'); var currentVideo = jQuery('#video_id_77_' + current_key).attr('data-element-id'); /*** add ***/ (currentVideo || nextVideo) && stopYoutubeVideo(currentVideo, nextVideo); if ((jQuery('#player_77_' + current_key)).hasClass('huge-it-iframe-vimeo')) { jQuery('#player_77_' + current_key).vimeo('pause'); } if ((jQuery('#player_77_' + key)).hasClass('huge-it-iframe-vimeo') && ('off' == 'on')) { jQuery('#player_77_' + key).vimeo('play'); } /*** ***/ window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_' +77]); play_77(); } } var staticthumbWidth; jQuery(window).load(function() { staticthumbWidth = jQuery('#huge_it_thumb_slider>li').width(); }); function huge_it_popup_resize_77() { var staticsliderwidth =850; var sliderwidth =850; var bodyWidth = jQuery(window).width(); var parentWidth = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_77").parent().width(); if (sliderwidth > parentWidth) { sliderwidth = parentWidth; } if (sliderwidth > bodyWidth) { sliderwidth = bodyWidth; } var str=630/(staticsliderwidth); var str2 =100/850; var sliderDynamicImageHeight = sliderwidth*str; var sliderDynamicThumbHeight = 0; jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_77').css({'max-height':sliderDynamicImageHeight+sliderDynamicThumbHeight}); jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap1_77').css({'max-height':sliderDynamicImageHeight}); jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_thumbs_77 li').css({'max-height':sliderDynamicThumbHeight}); jQuery("#huge_it_loading_image_77").css({display: "none"}); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap1_77").css({opacity: 1}); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_77").removeClass("nocolor"); if ("resize"=="crop"){ jQuery(".huge_it_slider_ul li img").each(function(){ if(jQuery(this).prop('naturalWidth')>jQuery(this).prop('naturalHeight')) jQuery(this).css({'width':'100%','height':'auto'/*,'top':'50%','left':'50%','transform':'translate( -50%, -50% )'*/}); else{ jQuery(this).css({'height':'100%','width':'auto'/*,'top':'50%','left':'50%','transform':'translate( -50%, -50% )'*/}); } }); } jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_77").css({opacity:1}); } jQuery(window).load(function () { jQuery(window).resize(function() { huge_it_popup_resize_77(); }); jQuery('#huge_it_slideshow_left_77').on('click',function(){ huge_it_change_image_77(parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_77').val()), (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_77').val()) - iterator_77()) >= 0 ? (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_77').val()) - iterator_77()) % data_77.length : data_77.length - 1, data_77,false,true); return false; }); jQuery('#huge_it_slideshow_right_77').on('click',function(){ huge_it_change_image_77(parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_77').val()), (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_77').val()) + iterator_77()) % data_77.length, data_77,false,true); return false; }); huge_it_popup_resize_77(); /* Disable right click.*/ jQuery('div[id^="huge_it_container"]').bind("contextmenu", function () { return false; }); /*HOVER SLIDESHOW*/ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_container_77, .huge_it_slideshow_image_container_77, .huge_it_slideshow_dots_container_77,#huge_it_slideshow_right_77,#huge_it_slideshow_left_77").hover(function(){ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_right_77").css({'display':'inline'}); jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_left_77").css({'display':'inline'}); },function(){ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_right_77").css({'display':'none'}); jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_left_77").css({'display':'none'}); }); if(pausehover=="on" && !/Android|webOS|iPhone|iPad|iPod|BlackBerry|IEMobile|Opera Mini/i.test(navigator.userAgent)){ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_container_77, .huge_it_slideshow_image_container_77").hover(function(){ window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+77]); scrolling = false; },function(){ window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+77]); scrolling = true; play_77(); }); } play_77(); }); function play_77(){ if(scrolling || /Android|webOS|iPhone|iPad|iPod|BlackBerry|IEMobile|Opera Mini/i.test(navigator.userAgent)){ huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+77] = setInterval(function () { var iterator = 1; huge_it_change_image_77(parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_77').val()), (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_77').val()) + iterator) % data_77.length, data_77,false,false); }, '4000'); } } jQuery(window).focus(function() { var i_77 = 0; jQuery(".huge_it_slider_77").children("div").each(function () { if (jQuery(this).css('opacity') == 1) { jQuery("#huge_it_current_image_key_77").val(i_77); } i_77++; }); }); jQuery(window).blur(function() { console.log(event_stack_77); window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+77]); }); jQuery(window).focus(function() { play_77() });
jQuery(document).ready(function(jQuery) { setInterval(function() { jQuery('.huge_it_slider_77').find("li").each(function() { if (jQuery(this).css("opacity") == "1") { var img_id = jQuery(this).attr('id'); jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_thumbs_77').each(function() { var allListElements = jQuery('li[id=' + img_id + ']'); jQuery(this).find(allListElements).not(".bx-clone").each(function() { jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_thumbs_77 li').find(".trans_back").css('background', 'rgba(255,255,255,0.3)'); jQuery(this).find('.trans_back').css('background', 'none'); }) }) } }) }, 100) })
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