BRODERIES ET DENTELLES. “DERRIERE LA FENETRE D’UNE VIEILLE MAISON” di Venera Coco – Numero 3 – Gennaio 2016

copertina-coco
cat-arte
cat-stile
Le-professeur

étaient les outils les plus courants dans les mains des jeunes Siciliennes qui préparaient anxieusement leurs trousseaux, en espérant pouvoir un jour exhiber leurs travaux avec l’audace propre aux maîtresses de maison. Pendant longtemps, les villes de cette île, complexe et mystérieuse, furent décorées de la beauté et de la finesse des broderies et des dentelles qui parvenaient à rendre précieux chaque recoin des maisons, chaque bannière des autels des églises, même ce qui se portait mais devait rester secret.

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} } } function huge_it_cubeH_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { /* Set to half of image width.*/ var dimension = jQuery(current_image_class).width() / 2; if (direction == 'right') { huge_it_cube_19(dimension, dimension, 0, 0, 90, 0, -90, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else if (direction == 'left') { huge_it_cube_19(dimension, -dimension, 0, 0, -90, 0, 90, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } } function huge_it_cubeV_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { /* Set to half of image height.*/ var dimension = jQuery(current_image_class).height() / 2; /* If next slide.*/ if (direction == 'right') { huge_it_cube_19(dimension, 0, -dimension, 90, 0, -90, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else if (direction == 'left') { huge_it_cube_19(dimension, 0, dimension, -90, 0, 90, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } } /* For browsers that does not support transitions.*/ function huge_it_fallback_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_fade_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } /* For browsers that support transitions, but not 3d transforms (only used if primary transition makes use of 3d-transforms).*/ function huge_it_fallback3d_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_sliceV_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_none_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, 'z-index' : 2}); /* Set active thumbnail.*/ jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_19 + "_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19"); } function huge_it_fade_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (huge_it_testBrowser_cssTransitions_19()) { jQuery(next_image_class).css('transition', 'opacity ' + huge_it_transition_duration_19 + 'ms linear'); 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jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_19 + "_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19"); return huge_it_fallback_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } huge_it_trans_in_progress_19 = true; /* Set active thumbnail.*/ jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19"); jQuery("#huge_it_dots_" + huge_it_current_key_19 + "_19").removeClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_deactive_19").addClass("huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19"); /* The time (in ms) added to/subtracted from the delay total for each new gridlet.*/ var count = (huge_it_transition_duration_19) / (cols + rows); /* Gridlet creator (divisions of the image grid, positioned with background-images to replicate the look of an entire slide image when assembled)*/ function huge_it_gridlet(width, height, top, img_top, left, img_left, src, imgWidth, imgHeight, c, r) { var delay = (c + r) * count; /* Return a gridlet elem with styles for specific transition.*/ return jQuery('
').css({ width : width, height : height, top : top, left : left, backgroundImage : 'url("' + src + '")', backgroundColor: jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_19").css("background-color"), /*backgroundColor: rgba(0, 0, 0, 0),*/ backgroundRepeat: 'no-repeat', backgroundPosition : img_left + 'px ' + img_top + 'px', backgroundSize : imgWidth + 'px ' + imgHeight + 'px', transition : 'all ' + huge_it_transition_duration_19 + 'ms ease-in-out ' + delay + 'ms', transform : 'none' }); } /* Get the current slide's image.*/ var cur_img = jQuery(current_image_class).find('img'); /* Create a grid to hold the gridlets.*/ var grid = jQuery('
').addClass('huge_it_grid_19'); /* Prepend the grid to the next slide (i.e. so it's above the slide image).*/ jQuery(current_image_class).prepend(grid); /* vars to calculate positioning/size of gridlets*/ var cont = jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_19"); var imgWidth = cur_img.width(); var imgHeight = cur_img.height(); var contWidth = cont.width(), contHeight = cont.height(), imgSrc = cur_img.attr('src'),/*.replace('/thumb', ''),*/ colWidth = Math.floor(contWidth / cols), rowHeight = Math.floor(contHeight / rows), colRemainder = contWidth - (cols * colWidth), colAdd = Math.ceil(colRemainder / cols), rowRemainder = contHeight - (rows * rowHeight), rowAdd = Math.ceil(rowRemainder / rows), leftDist = 0, img_leftDist = (jQuery(".huge_it_slide_bg_19").width() - cur_img.width()) / 2; /* tx/ty args can be passed as 'auto'/'min-auto' (meaning use slide width/height or negative slide width/height).*/ tx = tx === 'auto' ? contWidth : tx; tx = tx === 'min-auto' ? - contWidth : tx; ty = ty === 'auto' ? contHeight : ty; ty = ty === 'min-auto' ? - contHeight : ty; /* Loop through cols*/ for (var i = 0; i 0) { var add = colRemainder >= colAdd ? colAdd : colRemainder; newColWidth += add; colRemainder -= add; } /* Nested loop to create row gridlets for each col.*/ for (var j = 0; j 0) { add = newRowRemainder >= rowAdd ? rowAdd : rowRemainder; newRowHeight += add; newRowRemainder -= add; } /* Create & append gridlet to grid.*/ grid.append(huge_it_gridlet(newColWidth, newRowHeight, topDist, img_topDst, leftDist, img_leftDist, imgSrc, imgWidth, imgHeight, i, j)); topDist += newRowHeight; img_topDst -= newRowHeight; } img_leftDist -= newColWidth; leftDist += newColWidth; } /* Set event listener on last gridlet to finish transitioning.*/ var last_gridlet = grid.children().last(); /* Show grid & hide the image it replaces.*/ grid.show(); cur_img.css('opacity', 0); /* Add identifying classes to corner gridlets (useful if applying border radius).*/ grid.children().first().addClass('rs-top-left'); grid.children().last().addClass('rs-bottom-right'); grid.children().eq(rows - 1).addClass('rs-bottom-left'); grid.children().eq(- rows).addClass('rs-top-right'); /* Execution steps.*/ setTimeout(function () { grid.children().css({ opacity: op, transform: 'rotate('+ ro +'deg) translateX('+ tx +'px) translateY('+ ty +'px) scale('+ sc +')' }); }, 1); jQuery(next_image_class).css('opacity', 1); /* After transition.*/ jQuery(last_gridlet).one('webkitTransitionEnd transitionend otransitionend oTransitionEnd mstransitionend', jQuery.proxy(huge_it_after_trans)); function huge_it_after_trans() { jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, 'z-index' : 2}); cur_img.css('opacity', 1); grid.remove(); huge_it_trans_in_progress_19 = false; if (typeof event_stack_19 !== 'undefined' && event_stack_19.length > 0) { key = event_stack_19[0].split("-"); event_stack_19.shift(); huge_it_change_image_19(key[0], key[1], data_19, true,false); } } } function huge_it_sliceH_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_19(1, 8, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_sliceV_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_19(10, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideV_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } huge_it_grid_19(1, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideH_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_19(1, 1, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleOut_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 1.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleIn_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blockScale_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(8, 6, 0, 0, 0, .6, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_kaleidoscope_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(10, 8, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_fan_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var rotate = 45; var translateX = 100; } else if (direction == 'left') { var rotate = -45; var translateX = -100; } huge_it_grid_19(1, 10, rotate, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blindV_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(1, 8, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_blindH_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_19(10, 1, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_random_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { var anims = ['sliceH', 'sliceV', 'slideH', 'slideV', 'scaleOut', 'scaleIn', 'blockScale', 'kaleidoscope', 'fan', 'blindH', 'blindV']; /* Pick a random transition from the anims array.*/ this["huge_it_" + anims[Math.floor(Math.random() * anims.length)] + "_19"](current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function iterator_19() { return 1; } function huge_it_change_image_19(current_key, key, data_19, from_effect, clicked) { if (data_19[key]) { if (!from_effect) { // Change image key. jQuery("#huge_it_current_image_key_19").val(key); current_key = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_19").attr("data-image_key"); } if (huge_it_trans_in_progress_19) { event_stack_19.push(current_key + '-' + key); return; } var direction = 'right'; if (huge_it_current_key_19 > key) { direction = 'left'; } else if (huge_it_current_key_19 == key) { return false; } // Set active thumbnail position. huge_it_current_key_19 = key; jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_19").attr('data-image_id', data_19[key]["id"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_title_text_19").html(data_19[key]["alt"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_description_text_19").html(data_19[key]["description"]); var current_image_class = "#image_id_19_" + data_19[current_key]["id"]; var next_image_class = "#image_id_19_" + data_19[key]["id"]; if (jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_video_frame_19').length > 0) { var streffect = 'fade'; if (streffect == "cubeV" || streffect == "cubeH" || streffect == "none" || streffect == "fade") { huge_it_fade_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else { huge_it_fade_19(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); 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De la dentelle sicilienne, du macramé, du crochet et de la broderie, Domenico Dolce et Stefano Gabbana, ont fait un « must »: ce n’est pas un hasard si le mot dentelle fait immédiatement penser à la dentelle noire qui les a rendu célèbres.

Simbolo-f-p-R

BRODERIES ET DENTELLES. “DERRIERE LA FENETRE D’UNE VIEILLE MAISON”

 

Venera-Coco-Rossa

Ces arabesques rappellent la créativité des artisans capables de travailler la céramique, le bois et l’argile. Au fond, il s’agit de transformer le fil en sculpture, un y appliquant une maîtrise patiente, que ces femmes mettent en oeuvre en répétant toujours les mêmes gestes, comme si elles chantaient une berceuse dont elles connaissent les paroles par cœur.
Ces oeuvres réalisées, point après point, dans une alternance harmonieuse de pleins et de vides, rendent les nappes et les draps précieuxCes arabesques rappellent la créativité des artisans capables de travailler la céramique, le bois et l’argile. Au fond, il s’agit de transformer le fil en sculpture, un y appliquant une maîtrise patiente, que ces femmes mettent en oeuvre en répétant toujours les mêmes gestes, comme si elles chantaient une berceuse dont elles connaissent les paroles par cœur.
Ces oeuvres réalisées, point après point, dans une alternance harmonieuse de pleins et de vides, rendent les nappes et les draps précieux

Les mains nerveuses tissent depuis des siècles dans les cours des maisons ce simple fil qui, par ses tours et ses acrobaties, tisse miraculeusement les arabesques à ajuster aux tissus pour les rendre précieux.

Ces broderies et ces dentelles rappellent la lave volcanique qui, en se refroidissant garde en elle l’air bleu et le parfum des genêts.

Les créations de Marras respirent l’excentricité et tournent autour de couches et d’incrustations de tissus et de broderies, qui racontent l’histoire mouvementée de sa terre, dans une succession d’influences et de cultures, et les rendent similaires à une roche sédimentaire.

En Sicile la dentelle se travaille toujours et la tâche est confiée aux femmes plus âgées, pliées sur leurs petits cadres ronds.
Les après-midi d’été, les cours des maisons anciennes deviennent leur refuge préféré loin de la chaleur de l’été. De « derrière la fenêtre d’une vieille maison», comme le chante Battiato dans «Mal d’Afrique», aux grandes multinationales du luxe, le chemin est court: les styles du passé se modernisent pour faire place à des versions plus contemporaines.

Fluide, magmatique et inoubliable, comme le feu qui jaillit de l’Etna, tel fut le défilé des modèles (à la fin du défilé automne / hiver 2013-2014) qui portaient sur leurs corps l’arrogance de la lave incandescente sur laquelle le jais jet le strass brillaient comme des joyaux . Le travail des brodeuses expertes enchante aussi la designer milanaise Luisa Beccaria qui a hérité de son mari, le noble Bonaccorsi de Reburdone, cette attitude typiquement sicilienne, et réalise des vêtements néo-romantiques de style préraphaélite, en broderie anglaise et macramé, mais aussi des jupes évasées qui incluent des pièces en dentelle.

Gonflées de crinolines, les robes de soirée en taffetas sont de véritables œuvres d’art de la Renaissance, légères et transparentes et savent comment mettre en valeur le travail laborieux qui produit les dentelles aériennes.

A Alghero également, dans la Sardaigne de Antonio Marras, les dentelles sont un élément essentiel de la culture de l’île. Dans la signature stylistique de la créatrice il y a a eu il y aura probablement toujours de la place pour la broderie, la dentelle de Bosa et les autres productions manuelles qui sont au coeur de l’artisanat sarde.

Si pendant longtemps on a essayé de donner de la légèreté aux vêtements, de les rendre aussi impalpables que des cristaux de sucre grâce aux dentelles et aux broderies, il ne faut pas oublier que cet effet est le résultat d’un travail savant et minutieux, qui cache les idées et les géométries de ceux qui réussissent à créer avec très peu, des nuages d’une telle beauté.

ITA | FR