LE CORALLARE DI TORRE DEL GRECO di Stefania Conti – Numero 11 – Luglio 2018

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LE CORALLARE DI TORRE    DEL GRECO              

 

stefania_conti

Solo lì, sul collo bianco e saldo delle donne, nell’immediata vicinanza dell’arteria pulsante, sorella dei cuori femminili, rinascevano a nuova vita, acquistavano splendore e bellezza ed esercitavano il loro innato magico potere di attrarre gli uomini e ridestare le loro voglie amorose”. 

 

Una visione poetica come solo uno scrittore della sua epoca può dare. E, a dire il vero, non solo le contadine hanno amato gli Antozoi (questo il nome scientifico). Usato da Sumeri, Egizi, Celti, presente nell’arte bizantina, diffuso nel Medioevo occidentale, ha avuto una particolare fioritura in Italia nel 17° e 18° secolo. Tra le nobili, come tra le plebee. Come gioiello o come oggetto di ornamento. Ma se si trascende da questo aspetto,

si può leggere una storia molto interessante dal punto di vista economico 

e sociologico. Perché i coralli hanno scritto una pagina importante 

nella storia dell’emancipazione femminile meridionale. E non solo.


Uno dei centri di pesca del prezioso materiale è stato per secoli Torre del Greco. Nel 1805 un imprenditore francese, Bartolomeo Martin, ottiene da Ferdinando IV di Borbone l’autorizzazione ad impiantare una fabbrica per la lavorazione. Fino a quel momento i pescatori avevano venduto il corallo pescato dalle coralline di Torre del Greco ai mercanti di Livorno, che poi a loro volta lo vendevano a Trapani, Genova, Marsiglia. 

 

Se Martin era un rappresentante del new age napoleonico, un borghese imprenditore con lo sguardo lungo, Ferdinando di Borbone era l’espressione dell’ancien régime, ma era molto interessato al tema delle manifatture (è lui il fondatore delle seterie di San Leucio, ancora oggi un vero e proprio modello di organizzazione). Ed è proprio il re Borbone che impone al Martin la clausola che qui ci interessa: la manodopera deve essere femminile.

Il motivo era semplice. Gli uomini impegnati nella pesca del corallo 

stavano fuori casa anche per anni. La famiglia 

veniva mandata avanti dalle donne.


Ma spesso i soldi non bastavano, anche perché non si sapeva mai con certezza la data del rientro e bastava un niente per farla saltare. Le povere torresi erano costrette a ricorrere agli usurai e, nei casi peggiori, a prostituirsi. Torre del Greco stava diventando una vera e propria piaga. Per questo Ferdinando interviene. Non solo. Nel 1807 si decide anche di aprire una scuola nel Real Albergo dei Poveri a Napoli, dedicata alle “donzelle” per la manifattura del corallo. Scuola che ben presto sarà aperta anche ai giovani reclusi. Le cose al Real Albergo di Napoli non andarono bene. Ma a Torre, sì. Già nel 1806 Il lavoro delle donne andava particolarmente bene.

Avevano una forte motivazione che le rendeva particolarmente abili nel bucare, 

infilare e confezionare collane. Con misure ante litteram potevano anche scegliere 

di lavorare a casa o part time, così potevano accudire i bambini.


Ce la mettevano tutta, lavorare in fabbrica era il mezzo per uscire dalla povertà e dall’emarginazione.

 

“C’erano bambini, a Torre, cresciuti praticamente nelle cassette di corallo grezzo: quando erano piccoli, le mamme li mettevano lì per averli sotto gli occhi e continuare a lavorare”, ricorda Caterina Ascione, storica dell’arte e appassionata studiosa del corallo.

Nel 1878 sorse in città addirittura una Scuola per l’incisione e la lavorazione 

del corallo, tuttora esistente, presso la quale nel 1933 

fu istituito l’omonimo museo.


Caduti i Borbone, arrivano i francesi. Giuseppe Napoleone prima e Gioacchino Murat dopo. Anche con loro la fabbrica di Bartolomeo Martin continua. Anzi, tra alti e bassi va avanti per oltre vent’anni. I due sovrani francesi incoraggiano e promuovono l’attività industriale meridionale. E per quanto riguarda il corallo, Martin certamente è aiutato dalla moda che esplode nelle corti napoleoniche. Una ambasciatrice autorevole è stata Carolina Bonaparte Murat, che per l’oro rosso aveva una vera e propria passione. Al punto di regalare a suo fratello Napoleone (sembra per far pace dopo una lite) i cammei di corallo finemente lavorati che decorano la spada di gala del Gran Corso. Oggi la si può vedere nel museo napoleonico di Fontainebleau. 

 

Carolina va oltre. Lo sponsorizza come prodotto speciale del Regno.

Diventa le souvenir de la Reine. Le riviste di moda francesi lo propongono 

come gioielleria “da giorno”. Una parure di corallo associata ad uno chale cachemire morbidamente appoggiato sulle braccia di una dama, e, voilà, il gioco è fatto.


Una rapida e duratura fortuna presso le signore dell’alta borghesia e dell’aristocrazia che presto conquisterà tutta l’Europa, e stavolta non sarà più pour les dames di più alto lignaggio, ma anche presso le popolane. 

 

La lavorazione ancora oggi è in mano femminile. Torre del Greco è considerata una capitale del corallo e combatte da pari con la concorrenza dei prodotti asiatici.

 

 

 

 

 

nel suo libro Il mercante di coralli immaginava che l’anelito dei coralli fosse quello “di essere colti e portati sulla superficie della terra dai palombari, essere tagliati, levigati e infilati per adempiere infine il vero scopo della loro esistenza: diventare il monile di belle contadine.

Museo del corallo 1 Cattura
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ty = ty === 'min-auto' ? - contHeight : ty; /* Loop through cols*/ for (var i = 0; i 0) { var add = colRemainder >= colAdd ? colAdd : colRemainder; newColWidth += add; colRemainder -= add; } /* Nested loop to create row gridlets for each col.*/ for (var j = 0; j 0) { add = newRowRemainder >= rowAdd ? rowAdd : rowRemainder; newRowHeight += add; newRowRemainder -= add; } /* Create & append gridlet to grid.*/ grid.append(huge_it_gridlet(newColWidth, newRowHeight, topDist, img_topDst, leftDist, img_leftDist, imgSrc, imgWidth, imgHeight, i, j)); topDist += newRowHeight; img_topDst -= newRowHeight; } img_leftDist -= newColWidth; leftDist += newColWidth; } /* Set event listener on last gridlet to finish transitioning.*/ var last_gridlet = grid.children().last(); /* Show grid & hide the image it replaces.*/ grid.show(); cur_img.css('opacity', 0); /* Add identifying classes to corner gridlets (useful if applying border radius).*/ grid.children().first().addClass('rs-top-left'); grid.children().last().addClass('rs-bottom-right'); grid.children().eq(rows - 1).addClass('rs-bottom-left'); grid.children().eq(- rows).addClass('rs-top-right'); /* Execution steps.*/ setTimeout(function () { grid.children().css({ opacity: op, transform: 'rotate('+ ro +'deg) translateX('+ tx +'px) translateY('+ ty +'px) scale('+ sc +')' }); }, 1); jQuery(next_image_class).css('opacity', 1); /* After transition.*/ jQuery(last_gridlet).one('webkitTransitionEnd transitionend otransitionend oTransitionEnd mstransitionend', jQuery.proxy(huge_it_after_trans)); function huge_it_after_trans() { jQuery(current_image_class).css({'opacity' : 0, 'z-index': 1}); jQuery(next_image_class).css({'opacity' : 1, 'z-index' : 2}); cur_img.css('opacity', 1); grid.remove(); huge_it_trans_in_progress_84 = false; if (typeof event_stack_84 !== 'undefined' && event_stack_84.length > 0) { key = event_stack_84[0].split("-"); event_stack_84.shift(); huge_it_change_image_84(key[0], key[1], data_84, true,false); } } } function huge_it_sliceH_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_84(1, 8, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_sliceV_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_84(10, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideV_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateY = 'auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateY = 'min-auto'; } huge_it_grid_84(1, 1, 0, 0, translateY, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_slideH_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var translateX = 'min-auto'; } else if (direction == 'left') { var translateX = 'auto'; } huge_it_grid_84(1, 1, 0, translateX, 0, 1, 1, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleOut_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_84(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 1.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_scaleIn_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_84(1, 1, 0, 0, 0, 0.5, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blockScale_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_84(8, 6, 0, 0, 0, .6, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_kaleidoscope_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_84(10, 8, 0, 0, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_fan_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { if (direction == 'right') { var rotate = 45; var translateX = 100; } else if (direction == 'left') { var rotate = -45; var translateX = -100; } huge_it_grid_84(1, 10, rotate, translateX, 0, 1, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function huge_it_blindV_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_84(1, 8, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_blindH_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { huge_it_grid_84(10, 1, 0, 0, 0, .7, 0, current_image_class, next_image_class); } function huge_it_random_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction) { var anims = ['sliceH', 'sliceV', 'slideH', 'slideV', 'scaleOut', 'scaleIn', 'blockScale', 'kaleidoscope', 'fan', 'blindH', 'blindV']; /* Pick a random transition from the anims array.*/ this["huge_it_" + anims[Math.floor(Math.random() * anims.length)] + "_84"](current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } function iterator_84() { return 1; } function huge_it_change_image_84(current_key, key, data_84, from_effect, clicked) { if (data_84[key]) { if (!from_effect) { // Change image key. jQuery("#huge_it_current_image_key_84").val(key); current_key = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_dots_active_84").attr("data-image_key"); } if (huge_it_trans_in_progress_84) { event_stack_84.push(current_key + '-' + key); return; } var direction = 'right'; if (huge_it_current_key_84 > key) { direction = 'left'; } else if (huge_it_current_key_84 == key) { return false; } // Set active thumbnail position. huge_it_current_key_84 = key; jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_84").attr('data-image_id', data_84[key]["id"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_title_text_84").html(data_84[key]["alt"]); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_description_text_84").html(data_84[key]["description"]); var current_image_class = "#image_id_84_" + data_84[current_key]["id"]; var next_image_class = "#image_id_84_" + data_84[key]["id"]; if (jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_video_frame_84').length > 0) { var streffect = 'fade'; if (streffect == "cubeV" || streffect == "cubeH" || streffect == "none" || streffect == "fade") { huge_it_fade_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } else { huge_it_fade_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } } else { huge_it_fade_84(current_image_class, next_image_class, direction); } jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_84').removeClass('none'); if (jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_84').html() == "") { jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_84').addClass('none'); } jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_84').removeClass('none'); if (jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_84').html() == "") { jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_84').addClass('none'); } jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_slideshow_title_text_84').addClass('none'); jQuery(current_image_class).find('.huge_it_slideshow_description_text_84').addClass('none'); huge_it_move_dots_84(); /*** for vimeo and youtube stop pause play etc... ***/ var nextVideo = jQuery('#video_id_84_' + key).attr('data-element-id'); var currentVideo = jQuery('#video_id_84_' + current_key).attr('data-element-id'); /*** add ***/ (currentVideo || nextVideo) && stopYoutubeVideo(currentVideo, nextVideo); if ((jQuery('#player_84_' + current_key)).hasClass('huge-it-iframe-vimeo')) { jQuery('#player_84_' + current_key).vimeo('pause'); } if ((jQuery('#player_84_' + key)).hasClass('huge-it-iframe-vimeo') && ('off' == 'on')) { jQuery('#player_84_' + key).vimeo('play'); } /*** ***/ window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_' +84]); play_84(); } } var staticthumbWidth; jQuery(window).load(function() { staticthumbWidth = jQuery('#huge_it_thumb_slider>li').width(); }); function huge_it_popup_resize_84() { var staticsliderwidth =850; var sliderwidth =850; var bodyWidth = jQuery(window).width(); var parentWidth = jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_84").parent().width(); if (sliderwidth > parentWidth) { sliderwidth = parentWidth; } if (sliderwidth > bodyWidth) { sliderwidth = bodyWidth; } var str=619/(staticsliderwidth); var str2 =100/850; var sliderDynamicImageHeight = sliderwidth*str; var sliderDynamicThumbHeight = 0; jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_84').css({'max-height':sliderDynamicImageHeight+sliderDynamicThumbHeight}); jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap1_84').css({'max-height':sliderDynamicImageHeight}); jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_thumbs_84 li').css({'max-height':sliderDynamicThumbHeight}); jQuery("#huge_it_loading_image_84").css({display: "none"}); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap1_84").css({opacity: 1}); jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_84").removeClass("nocolor"); if ("resize"=="crop"){ jQuery(".huge_it_slider_ul li img").each(function(){ if(jQuery(this).prop('naturalWidth')>jQuery(this).prop('naturalHeight')) jQuery(this).css({'width':'100%','height':'auto'/*,'top':'50%','left':'50%','transform':'translate( -50%, -50% )'*/}); else{ jQuery(this).css({'height':'100%','width':'auto'/*,'top':'50%','left':'50%','transform':'translate( -50%, -50% )'*/}); } }); } jQuery(".huge_it_slideshow_image_wrap_84").css({opacity:1}); } jQuery(window).load(function () { jQuery(window).resize(function() { huge_it_popup_resize_84(); }); jQuery('#huge_it_slideshow_left_84').on('click',function(){ huge_it_change_image_84(parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_84').val()), (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_84').val()) - iterator_84()) >= 0 ? (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_84').val()) - iterator_84()) % data_84.length : data_84.length - 1, data_84,false,true); return false; }); jQuery('#huge_it_slideshow_right_84').on('click',function(){ huge_it_change_image_84(parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_84').val()), (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_84').val()) + iterator_84()) % data_84.length, data_84,false,true); return false; }); huge_it_popup_resize_84(); /* Disable right click.*/ jQuery('div[id^="huge_it_container"]').bind("contextmenu", function () { return false; }); /*HOVER SLIDESHOW*/ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_container_84, .huge_it_slideshow_image_container_84, .huge_it_slideshow_dots_container_84,#huge_it_slideshow_right_84,#huge_it_slideshow_left_84").hover(function(){ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_right_84").css({'display':'inline'}); jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_left_84").css({'display':'inline'}); },function(){ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_right_84").css({'display':'none'}); jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_left_84").css({'display':'none'}); }); if(pausehover=="on" && !/Android|webOS|iPhone|iPad|iPod|BlackBerry|IEMobile|Opera Mini/i.test(navigator.userAgent)){ jQuery("#huge_it_slideshow_image_container_84, .huge_it_slideshow_image_container_84").hover(function(){ window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+84]); scrolling = false; },function(){ window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+84]); scrolling = true; play_84(); }); } play_84(); }); function play_84(){ if(scrolling || /Android|webOS|iPhone|iPad|iPod|BlackBerry|IEMobile|Opera Mini/i.test(navigator.userAgent)){ huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+84] = setInterval(function () { var iterator = 1; huge_it_change_image_84(parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_84').val()), (parseInt(jQuery('#huge_it_current_image_key_84').val()) + iterator) % data_84.length, data_84,false,false); }, '4000'); } } jQuery(window).focus(function() { var i_84 = 0; jQuery(".huge_it_slider_84").children("div").each(function () { if (jQuery(this).css('opacity') == 1) { jQuery("#huge_it_current_image_key_84").val(i_84); } i_84++; }); }); jQuery(window).blur(function() { console.log(event_stack_84); window.clearInterval(huge_interval['huge_it_playInterval_'+84]); }); jQuery(window).focus(function() { play_84() });
jQuery(document).ready(function(jQuery) { setInterval(function() { jQuery('.huge_it_slider_84').find("li").each(function() { if (jQuery(this).css("opacity") == "1") { var img_id = jQuery(this).attr('id'); jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_thumbs_84').each(function() { var allListElements = jQuery('li[id=' + img_id + ']'); jQuery(this).find(allListElements).not(".bx-clone").each(function() { jQuery('.huge_it_slideshow_thumbs_84 li').find(".trans_back").css('background', 'rgba(255,255,255,0.3)'); jQuery(this).find('.trans_back').css('background', 'none'); }) }) } }) }, 100) })

Foto: autorizzate da Soprintendenza Archeologia, Belle arti e Paesaggio per il Comune di Napoli Istituto d’Istruzione Superiore “Francesco Degni” Torre del Greco

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